Monday, February 15, 2010

Heartburn In Tenagers

Chilean Cuisine, crazy thing ...

Crazy Thing ...




Locos and other shellfish in Coquimbo. Photo Anabella.


For my work I spend several days a month touring some parts of our country away from the "tour" most frequently mentioned.

take these stays or "field trips" to get to know a bit more than the customs of every place, every time I learn and discover new things (at least for me) of our culture through what people prepare, eat and have.


rarely ceases to amaze me, how little we really know about the foods of this long and varied country, and I keep wondering how to do to share these findings and lessons, thinking that such Once this blog serves a bit to do something more visible preparations are not just a meal or a drink, but they are a manifesto of geography, production, customs and knowledge of places and people who are prepared.


Other times I am overcome an incredible euphoria, finding that some preparation of which I know only by ancient history books and kitchenware are real plates, ie there are not a dead letter, "which are there in front of me and whoever prepared it tells me how or because he prepares, remembering who learned it, why not prepare it that way and not another. What products used, or it can replace any of the ingredients and finally almost always linked to some family history, place and a major event.


No food good or bad, we who have "learned" to catalog it as such. In the words of Max Montanari, noted researcher and historian of power, raises the values \u200b\u200bof the food system and representation emerge as a result of cultural processes involving the domestication, processing and reinterpretation of nature.


food belongs to the culture that humans construct and manage. culture when it "occurs" as human beings not only conform to use what they find in nature, which is what makes the other animals, humans create our own food.


not enough to capture or harvest; passes be relevant to produce. The food is culture when prepared, because the products on hand that matters is their preparation, transforming these products through the fire and elaborate techniques expressed in the practice of the kitchen.


Montanari shares with us in "Food as culture" that taste is not in the language, but in the brain Historically and culturally-specific organ, by which we learn and transmit endpoints which vary in space and time. While that at a time or place is judged positively, in another time or place might be considered objectionable.


The definition of taste is part of the cultural heritage of societies and these may change over time.


Madmen





Table 1 . Crazy samples, Concholepas concholepas obtained from Holocene middens excavated Early-Middle in Los Vilos. LV: Los Vilos.

http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0717-71782004000100010&script=sci_arttext marine research.


In Chile Fools (Conchalepas conchalepas), gastropod mollusks benthic are known and appreciated; inhabit rocky seabed between 0 and 50 meters along our coasts . A carnivore, which feeds on barnacles , limpets and mussels . It has separate sexes and reproduces by cross-fertilization.

We consume raw or cooked in various preparations and canned or frozen exports mainly to Japan, Taiwan, Singapore, Hong Kong, China, United States, Canada, Mexico and Malaysia.

As the madman has been heavily exploited by man , there is a decline in its populations. What led determine areas of management and are subject to closure, being at present 10 cm capture their size. Its extraction is handmade and I have understood that extraction quotas are set. I remember the Chilean film "Fever the fool "that puts us on the stage of removal chilote and shows us what happens on this work (partly true and perhaps other pure imagination).

Gone are the insane in our memories of great size, which have become almost a childhood memory, which can be found in the domestic market at present are rather more boys than we bring our memories.



The first mention of these molluscs


In Notes for the History of the Chilean food Pereira Salas, in the chapter on "The Baroque abundance Creole," says Some of the Chilean seafood bought "name", ie in some places were plentiful and very good as were distinguished by area. The crazy left San registered Antonio with their strings of nuts and oysters.


also adds that the goodness of Chilean products in the colonial era can be proved by the exports recorded in the books of the Customs Santiago adding a small paragraph that refers to the Jesuit theologian Manuel Lacunza who among other stories mentions the possibility of "gorging in Valparaiso silverside and crabs, sea urchins and crazy." Pereira Salas mentioned then Kitchen of Old Homeland and the country New the "New Market" at the foot of the Puente Grande "superabundantly range" in which among many other products could be found insane and peaks (barnacles) from Coquimbo.


reminds us in The Locos Gastronomic Glossary (Conchalepas conchalepas), gastropod molluscs are present in the coasts of Chile and southern Peru from Callao to Cape Horn. is also found in the archipelago Juan Fernandez. His flesh thin and delicious, highly appreciated by connoisseurs, is the product of their feeding on barnacles, limpets and mussels. Because it has been heavily exploited by man, has resulted in a significant decline in their populations.


recent Locos


A activities they had to participate in the dry coastal IV the region near the Parque Fray Jorge was provided within the working day, which aimed at making the solar dehydrators, stop in for lunch.


As always a group in charge of feeding the entire group involved in community activity, this time along with making some meat (kebabs ) in a solar oven, set out as usual over there a stock fund and then a huge fried pies. The ingredients for both preparations had been charged in a cove near the site and that day had brought from the sea "seafood" to make the soup and stuffed pies, whose mass and were preparing a group of ladies.



handed, making empanadas Punilla IV region. Anabella Photo


My surprise was great when you open the package and see inside a lot of crazy huge size, I think that since childhood he saw no specimens of that size, I asked if it was because they had taken soaked with salt water to swell. The answer was no, the nuts were so in their natural state!


While the group in charge of the kitchen with preparations continued, stung onions, potatoes, carrots and nuts while others ended the dough.




Kicking mad Punilla. Photo Anabela

Long story short, I will comment that the outcome of lunch was something I left some perplexed and fascinated. I would have never thought of using chopped nuts and set up a carbon be with them ... because in my experience with the insane had always regarded as a scarce, expensive rather served on special occasions. Locos entry cooked in a green sauce or mayonnaise for entertaining, sometimes as a filling for pies, or longer as an epitome of crazy suck.


While here, they used them for something as classic and traditional as a carbon, essential dish with broth in traditional peasant lunch to date today. And second-fried empanadas enormous pine nuts when they added sugar, dessert mote a huge plate of small bones and finally to kill or "little water" of forest (grass).


Finally the day was round, the group learned how to build solar driers and then to use them and dry fruit, vegetables, meat for jerky and I returned with new knowledge about our meals, I knew that these locations every "seafood" is called by name and for them Seafood is a particular species. meals also commented about half left side in these times as the "throw it to the pot" (pantrucas), the Cututín boiled milk dessert sweetened with crushed wheat boiled in milk itself.


Some old recipes with Locos.



Carbonada of Locos. Punilla IV region. Photo Anabella.

mad Chowder
Cooking Manual 1925

Cook the nuts and cut into slices with egg and parsley, is jumping on a little color and becomes broth necessary.


Spaghetti with clams
Cooking Manual 1925

Chop the vegetables, put the pan with a little color and let it boil slowly steamed with a little broth .

The clams are attached to the vegetables just before serving, chipped in color with onion and parsley, and oregano.

If the stains are made in advance harden, are freshly prepared to link them to the vegetables.

In the same way is prepared with nuts, but the insane should be cooked separately. Suck

crazy
Cooking Manual 1925

Cook the nuts and cut into pieces of regular size.

Fry a teaspoon of oil and a tablespoon of butter, a little onion, add the nuts and fry all together for a moment, adding grated bread crumbs; gradually clears with half milk and broth, leaving the sauce thickens.

serving at the time you put cream cheese, chili, egg.


crazy Empanadas
1925 Kitchen Handbook

Madmen very soft cooked, cut into small pieces, it absorbs the onion in a tablespoon or two of color, add the nuts, salt, pepper and a little boiled water to the crazy, hard boiled egg.

girls patties are formed.




crazy fried pies. Anabella Photo
special Mass for empanadas

Cooking Manual 1925

One pound of flour, four ounces of fat, two or three buds, brine, half milk half water, a lump sugar. Fat and the brine is mixed with boiling flour, soba is long and thin spreads.

water is calculated gradually, first the yolks are mixed and incorporated with the flour, mix the fat per tablespoon and brine slowly as necessary to not spoil the dough is hard. For

brown patties were smeared color or medium egg whisk.

Those who know say that fools are so soft, the secret is to beat them, the limpets have to hit them just a little and softly, the reverse of the insane, with which you have to pick on until they are as potatoes.

"What which is eaten in Chile ", Ismael Espinosa V.




Punilla IV Community Lunch Ovalle. Photo Anabella.


I made much sense as proposed by Montanari in "Food as culture" definitely the taste is not in the language, but in the brain and is part of the cultural heritage of societies and these may change over time.

The food is culture as consumed, because although we could eat everything we do, but we choose our own food, one without thinking, but considering aspects that go hand in hand with dimensions include economic and nutritional well with symbolic values \u200b\u200bof the same food.

Ending a sentence Montanari ... "food is set up as a crucial element of human identity and as one of the most effective tools to communicate.