weeks ago talking about food for the local field could not stop to remember something written by Mayor Alfonso (1921 - 1992).
"... Every city, town or village, keeps the secret formulas that are not listed on the official menu. Food is "natural" is not removed from the recipe books. Food is based on "good hand" and the wisdom acquired by people in the difficult art of eating and going hungry ... have the tastiness of the real thing ... "
not the first time that crosses my path the subject of sweets (cakes) or "chilenitos." A little over two years commented here about them.
Trying to see more of our roots and confectioneries confectionery, most references inevitably lead us to the religious (nuns) of the colonial convents, if we look at how to prepare, one would delve into the recipes of old cookbooks or ask around.
It is difficult trying to find information about issues related to our kitchen, fortunately is still of interest to research @ s from different disciplines (history, anthropology, sociology, nutrition or other).
In the literature searches, I a study whose aim, according to the author, is highlight the importance of old cookbooks to disseminate "new" recipes showing the evolution of the prescription, between the nineteenth and early decades of the twentieth.
... "In the colonial Chilean cuisine was unusual presence of written prescriptions, which served for little else, from a largely illiterate population where the main transmission mechanism of culinary knowledge was mimesis and direct transmission of knowledge in practice. ... Carolina Sciolla, historian, in The Letter and Food.
De the colony, we have received information through descriptions of chroniclers and travelers, several listed in the "Notes" Pereira Salas. In the same book we also find our kitchen Republican, in which were fused two trends: colonial Creole food, a direct descendant of English and Indian cuisine and then mixed. Adding foreign influences that came later after independence. Sciolla
manuscript mentions the Abbe recipe Juan Ignacio Molina, as the oldest known Chilean recipe today (although it did collect several Italian recipes.) Most of the first recipe that circulated our country were copies or translations of recipes from other latitudes.
But there does not reach the thing, the years go by, life goes on ... and among other ancient recipes of the "chilenitos" have changed or maybe it's better to say evolve and adapt to products tastes of each place, and why not transformed according to the "good hands" and wisdom who prepares culinary.
met with a group in El Sauce (for placement near Portezuelo), between talk and talk about meals prepared currently at that location, among many other things above and near the end, we fell in candy.
In that context very last mentioned the "Chilean alfajor" I did not put more attention and immediately associated it with the typical sweet, two circles of dough-litter-filled with caramel.
I do not remember exactly why, but while detailing other sweet doughs (because along chile there are many more) I started to ask for details of how each of them did. To "speed up the cause," did a description of the typical "alfajores" ... But then I corrected on the fly, in the town preparing other very different in mass and, most unusual coffee was filled with wheat.
course right there I was very careful, as had never heard of that. It was a distinct sweet, prepared in a very precise date, a saint named party in September-called month of the fatherland.
days later commenting "finding" with a colleague who worked for years through these places, tells me that the Itata Valley collected in the context of a long and interesting work with rural communities other sweet the "Golden Alfajores Flour."
stayed a while talking about the issue, both convinced that each had come up with something completely unknown, the fact that we were very excited.
Weeks later, I was able to get my hands on the collection and the work published in the Itata Valley and before my eyes recipe for "Golden Alfajores Flour." Inevitably I started to compare it with that of wheat stuffed with coffee and I was reminded of an old recipe from an old recipe. It was like when you put together a puzzle!
Is this the great great grandmother of many of the current Chilean sweet fillings? Canned
for alfajores
confectionery
Manual Part 1876
a moment Boil a pint of honey, which will put a little water. It adds four ounces of crushed cookies until dough is thick and given point.
is known to be good when the stir is off the bottom. He gets a little orange peel roasted, or ground and filled alfajores.
For this keeps the cookie should be made of flour and water without any salt.
Note: It is worth remembering that once the sugar was rather scarce and not all people had access to it, honey was widely used as a sweetener.
long pieces of the puzzle began to adapt, one by one and had to trying to fit the rest. I started without trying to remember other Chilean alfajores or sweet, as I mentioned are just one of many sweet preparations made until today in different parts of our country.
For my memories were parading the children known to the south or the central valley, those of adolescents in the north. After other texts or live and live in different regions of Chile. Assembling the puzzle will gradually sure that there are still several pieces, but I want to share the assembly until now ....
"Chilenito" north-south current
Each
of them picks up a candy tradition, local products, adaptations and reinterpretations of old recipes perhaps even the convent of the past, "secret formulas" transmitted by word of mouth from one generation to another. Knowledge of many women, who rarely found in cookbooks, are those things that most are written in the notebook for each family. Are part of the inheritance is bequeathed.
ancestral recipes. Well
north in areas once inhabited by Aymara, old traditions are still preserved and prepared for meals, desserts and drinks. Due to the local climate, there are products that do not occur further south while others, such as quinoa, if grown elsewhere. Pica and Matilla are prepared from "always" a sweet individual Chileans. The
Alfajores Pica and Matilla, whose recipe is "secret."
in other regions may be best known now past the "puppet" of there, a friend told me frequent flyer " alfajores than typical traditional craft in the great north are not much, but if you can find the industry (most southern) is coated with chocolate all over the country and sold from kiosks to businesses of every variety,
The local chilenito, the typical, not found in department stores and its use is apparently less. Matilla Alfajores are little in Arica, Iquique and fed more in Pica in the same Matilla,
The local farms are, lemons, oranges, limes, grapefruits, tangelos, mangoes and guavas, and with these honeys and jams prepared last being used to fill the typical sweet in these localities (Pica and Matilla). Another alternative to the molasses filling is, well seasoned with cloves. Once the foliage and fillers made alfajores - from small-mass three layers are finished wallowing in dough, ground or shredded coconut.
How do you say that the recipe is secret, obviously I have not got, but I leave a link to a short local TV where you can see. http://www.iquiquetv.cl/2.0/2010/05/06/alfajores-de-matilla/
Some sweet north Chico.
Inside Ovalle is the Municipality of Rio Hurtado, upstream is a series of small towns whose livelihood is based on agriculture and breeding goats. In these locations and other nearby valleys-to-Combarbalá can find another variant of sweet Chilean alfajores or chilenitos.
Its peculiarity is a very different landfill, it is the "dish of rice" and above have a "freeze" of sugar, which is a glaze-
The other novelty is that often the food of rice, is usually made with goat milk, which is healthier, less lactose and fat than cow milk. Its flavor is mild and pleasant, is spiced with cinnamon and spice, with another as the hand of the person who prepared and family secrets. Something I almost forgot, is to highlight the color of the mass, quite yellow from the use of free-range eggs.
The rice dish which refers us to the past English, is also used in Bolivia, Mexico, Argentina and other Latin American countries. In the case of northern sweet boy is prepared previously soaked and washed rice, cooking for a long time with sugar and milk, spiced with cinnamon.
rice in other countries is ground and some will also add egg yolk or whole egg, turning it into desserts, you can add: raisins, nuts, cloves.
nortino For these locations, also padded alfajores and other sweets with caramel-milk-cow or alcayote (jam) with and without nuts roasted and peeled hopefully. These may or may not be coated with egg meringue frosting, which is left to air dry.
Candy The Ligua.
Who can forget the famous "popcorn" on the edge of the road, or vendors that are uploaded to the buses with their baskets filled, sandwich cookies, meringues, butter, powdered, chilenitos, shovels, Napoleon and little bits, that also found in several people's business.
candy tradition of La Ligua comes from the late nineteenth century. They say their "secret formula" dates from that time, this would cause particular its smooth flavor; remains to this day. The old recipe has become legend, and although there currently are various formulas to make sweets. Each generation has been enriched with new ingredients, textures, flavors and even varying forms, usually stuffed with caramel or dulce de alcayota. They say all descended from the same recipe.
Curacaví sweets.
My sweet memories of those trips back to the coast, at the time where you had to climb hills and there were not tunnel or highway. Became an inevitable stop along the way, to buy the famous candy Curacaví. Where today there are several candy factories Chilean recognized brands. Of them leave many traditional sweets, powdered, princes, spoons, alfajores with and without chocolate, meringues, coconut candies, alcayota turnovers, apple and pear, even Napoleon cake.
The specificity of the preparation of the mass in this place is only preparatory to a quantity of flour and egg yolks and whole eggs. Then comes the hard work of kneading the dough long time, until the experienced hands find the right texture, and then stretch, cut and bake the stubble. Currently have also built machines for this process. There are steps required, such as filling and never embetunar while bitumen is placed hours later.
Curicó Cakes:
is a kind of sweet cake or representative of our country, made in the city of Curico, known as the "City of the cake." My earliest memories of them are with ladies all in white, covered by a washcloth baskets albo, boarding a train that went to Puerto Montt to sell sweets and cakes Curicó, no one could stand in this long journey to buy the famous cakes Curicó to enliven the journey.
History of the candy goes back 1870, when a woman named Cristobalina began with the first base which was sweet leaf mass and fills ranging from the ubiquitous dish of milk, jams or alcayote that add nuts and / or almonds were made known to the country for sale at the train station with white uniformed vendors, baptized at the time as "popcorn."
tradition remained in the family, the recipes were expanded and several generations have continued to develop and market Curicó cakes and other sweets such as meringues, Berlin and pear turnovers. The cakes are larger than traditional alfajores and several layers of dough and filling. Are now produced in various sizes with varied fillings; to alcayota traditional delicacy, have been added almonds and walnuts, orange and almond dish with nuts. To view some images may go to www.flickr.com/photos/palomitascurico/4131217667/ http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torta_curicana
Sweets for indoor and Cauquenes Valley Itata.
Coffee wheat, Chillán Market Anabella August 2010 photo Alfajor Chileno de El Sauce. Adelaide
Villegas and target group
Emergency PPS UNDP Project.
These are filled with wheat coffee. Starting with the grains of wheat, previously cleaned and winnowed.
The mass of straw, prepared with 3 to 4 kilos of flour, butter originally added;
but now some women, prepared with margarine. They add five eggs (field) and two of them whole and only 3 egg yolks, a bit of baking soda to sugar varies according to the hand, between half a kilo. Kneaded and stretched, leaving the thin crust. Prick and bake the litter back and forth, should be a cookie. Commented that the more days of leave saved before refilling, are tastier.
For the filling: Prepare
boiling "coffee of wheat" in water, in ratio of 3 to 4 liters of water per kilo of coffee and half wheat. This is done in a large pot.
the dye is emptied into another pot, add cloves and dried orange peels grated or finely chopped, a kilo of sugar, boiling it to reduce.
In this preparation is added to roux, which has been previously prepared as follows: Cook the wheat giving a boil, then sun-dried, and later in the cayana roasting over the fire. Once the wheat is "browned" He proceeded to grind, let him in the same texture as the chuchoca, more or less fine.
Once you have gathered the wheat brewed coffee sweetened, add the roux, stirring constantly, until it's consistency similar to "turkey" or "wren", without stirring, until it is "a stop spoon. " Once ready, remove from heat and fill with this particular warm almost cool, fill in the stubble.
Flour Alfajores Dorada.
Juana Fuentes, Sector Leonera. Guranilahue. Coelemu.
CETSUR Cooker Times. 2010.
Ingredients for the dough:
3 kilos of raw flour 8 eggs
(8yemas, 5 egg whites) ¼
butter 1 pinch of baking powder (baking powder)
ingredients are mixed with warm water. The wet like bread dough and rubs it. He stretches the dough and cut the molds. (round and similar in size to the diameter of a cup).
Stuffing ingredients: Water
, cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, sugar, flour.
Preparation: Prepare
syrup, water, cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, sugar, which is rather sweet. Prepare a dough with water long enough to pancutra and let brown in the oven. This mass is ground and prepared the syrup added to thicken. Finally, fill (with) a couple tablespoons of this mixture for each muffin. It leaves a little flour to powder. Served the next day.
Juana Fuentes, Sector Leonera. Guranilahue. Coelemu.
CETSUR Cooker Times. 2010.
Ingredients for the dough:
3 kilos of raw flour 8 eggs
(8yemas, 5 egg whites) ¼
butter 1 pinch of baking powder (baking powder)
ingredients are mixed with warm water. The wet like bread dough and rubs it. He stretches the dough and cut the molds. (round and similar in size to the diameter of a cup).
Stuffing ingredients: Water
, cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, sugar, flour.
Preparation: Prepare
syrup, water, cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, sugar, which is rather sweet. Prepare a dough with water long enough to pancutra and let brown in the oven. This mass is ground and prepared the syrup added to thicken. Finally, fill (with) a couple tablespoons of this mixture for each muffin. It leaves a little flour to powder. Served the next day.
Rosita Vargas.
Alfajores Valdivian. Monica
Pradenas.
The particular in those parts of our south, goes by the type of filling. There is a classic by incorporating dried figs and nuts. I guess will have to do with national contributions of the German colony in the area. Fill
Alfajores
Valdivian.
Dissolve in a saucepan 1 large package of delicious molasses (there are now some small packages take 2 of those) with 1 cup water, add orange zest (about 2 tablespoons).
Once dissolved, add ¼ kg. chopped dried figs in a food processor and 200 g of chopped nuts.
assess the consistency and if too thin add flour gold (sauteed in a pan) to thicken, it should be the consistency of paste
can add spices like cinnamon and cloves, but Monica you prefer without. Once thick and can be filled alfajores.
Pradenas.
The particular in those parts of our south, goes by the type of filling. There is a classic by incorporating dried figs and nuts. I guess will have to do with national contributions of the German colony in the area. Fill
Alfajores
Valdivian.
Dissolve in a saucepan 1 large package of delicious molasses (there are now some small packages take 2 of those) with 1 cup water, add orange zest (about 2 tablespoons).
Once dissolved, add ¼ kg. chopped dried figs in a food processor and 200 g of chopped nuts.
assess the consistency and if too thin add flour gold (sauteed in a pan) to thicken, it should be the consistency of paste
can add spices like cinnamon and cloves, but Monica you prefer without. Once thick and can be filled alfajores.
Alfajores Osorno.
Alfajores can not fault for the Fiestas Patrias in Osorno. Area with strong influence of German cuisine, which has been intertwined with Chilean cuisine and customs that go out of his hand. The characteristic of the foliage fills are usually: caramel, brown sugar with nuts, dried figs also prepare and molasses, as in Valdivia.
The author of www.comidachile, but in his blog alfajores recipes that caught my attention. We ended up in exchange "letters", curious to discover links that detail is irrelevant. She recalls that "when I was little was eaten many filled with molasses and the difference thickening was different from that put middlings which is the most common.
In the south if there alfajores p'al 18 no celebration. "
What interests me to finally conclude this time with the issue of sandwich cookies, or chilenitos (which has gone terribly long) is to leave evidence of how they are mixing and adding to our recipe confectioner techniques, products and customs are joining our national recipe.
White Manjar alfajores filling.
Angelica Bertin.
www.comidachile.Blogspot.com
Recipe 1.
400 grams of sugar 200 CC
water 400 grams of milk powder 150 grams
cream
hair Make a syrup with water and sugar until to point and remove from heat.
Add powdered milk, stirring until fully incorporated, then add the cream. Take a few minutes over low heat (stirring). And you're ready. Suggests filling the litter when the dish is warm, almost cold.
Another recipe for blancmange Puerto Octay.
From
www.comidachile.blogspot.com
1 can of condensed milk 125 grams
butter 100 grams of nuts.
process begins by melting the butter, add the condensed milk, beating until thickened. Afterwards, add roughly chopped walnuts. Is used to fill the candy, once the preparation is warm.
molasses filling for alfajores Osorno.
225 grams of molasses
water 2 cups orange peels
not white.
Pinch cloves
6 tablespoons of flour (white without baking)
chopped walnuts 200 grams
Brown the flour in a saucepan with a thick, golden once allowed to cool and set aside.
Moreover, the molasses is dissolved in water and add the orange peel and cloves, boiling over low heat for 15 minutes. Taking out the orange peels that were used for perfuming.
In a separate bowl, dissolve flour in cold water and gold once you are no lumps, add to pot with brown sugar and stir constantly over low heat until they "can see the bottom of the pot. "
Finally add the chopped nuts. And presto alfajores filling.
Alfajores can not fault for the Fiestas Patrias in Osorno. Area with strong influence of German cuisine, which has been intertwined with Chilean cuisine and customs that go out of his hand. The characteristic of the foliage fills are usually: caramel, brown sugar with nuts, dried figs also prepare and molasses, as in Valdivia.
The author of www.comidachile, but in his blog alfajores recipes that caught my attention. We ended up in exchange "letters", curious to discover links that detail is irrelevant. She recalls that "when I was little was eaten many filled with molasses and the difference thickening was different from that put middlings which is the most common.
In the south if there alfajores p'al 18 no celebration. "
What interests me to finally conclude this time with the issue of sandwich cookies, or chilenitos (which has gone terribly long) is to leave evidence of how they are mixing and adding to our recipe confectioner techniques, products and customs are joining our national recipe.
White Manjar alfajores filling.
Angelica Bertin.
www.comidachile.Blogspot.com
Recipe 1.
400 grams of sugar 200 CC
water 400 grams of milk powder 150 grams
cream
hair Make a syrup with water and sugar until to point and remove from heat.
Add powdered milk, stirring until fully incorporated, then add the cream. Take a few minutes over low heat (stirring). And you're ready. Suggests filling the litter when the dish is warm, almost cold.
Another recipe for blancmange Puerto Octay.
From
www.comidachile.blogspot.com
1 can of condensed milk 125 grams
butter 100 grams of nuts.
process begins by melting the butter, add the condensed milk, beating until thickened. Afterwards, add roughly chopped walnuts. Is used to fill the candy, once the preparation is warm.
molasses filling for alfajores Osorno.
225 grams of molasses
water 2 cups orange peels
not white.
Pinch cloves
6 tablespoons of flour (white without baking)
chopped walnuts 200 grams
Brown the flour in a saucepan with a thick, golden once allowed to cool and set aside.
Moreover, the molasses is dissolved in water and add the orange peel and cloves, boiling over low heat for 15 minutes. Taking out the orange peels that were used for perfuming.
In a separate bowl, dissolve flour in cold water and gold once you are no lumps, add to pot with brown sugar and stir constantly over low heat until they "can see the bottom of the pot. "
Finally add the chopped nuts. And presto alfajores filling.
I can not regret what has gone this long, I could not decide to leave in two chapters. I want to especially thank infinitely @ s @ s friend who helped knowingly and unwittingly, to cooperate with data collection and sweet, thanks to everyone s: First
a long list of rural women which have shed many of these sweets. I'll leave Sras summarized in Hilda, Margot, Juana and Adelaide.
Felipe V, the term "hook" so hard and get the "traffic" of Matilla sweet / Pica, involving the "burreros" did not understand much interest in the candy.
Isabel A, for working from Valdivia gained popular recipe from her friend good p'a the kitchen.
Rita M, for sharing your work and your team of "fire times" Broths and other memorabilia of women Itata, at the crossroads: women, land, seeds, crops, and fire, the creation of course, identity and territory.
At friends / os Chilean blogger @ s of endless recipes, those scattered around the world, they stopped recording and sharing their preparations (not just candy Chile) Canela Kitchen's recipes, cuisine, Chef Potro, Dejamecocinarte, Dulcinea, in ghettos!, in my kitchen today, culinary space, the witch Ginger, La cucina of topino, the pan and Mango, Polin in Kitchen Sweet Kitchen Cakes Toronto especially Chile.
previous entries in this blog our sweet:
http://cocinartechile.blogspot.com/2008/07/postres-chilenos-1.html
http://cocinartechile.blogspot. com/2008/08/postres-chilenos-2.html
http://cocinartechile.blogspot.com/2008_08_24_archive.html
a long list of rural women which have shed many of these sweets. I'll leave Sras summarized in Hilda, Margot, Juana and Adelaide.
Felipe V, the term "hook" so hard and get the "traffic" of Matilla sweet / Pica, involving the "burreros" did not understand much interest in the candy.
Isabel A, for working from Valdivia gained popular recipe from her friend good p'a the kitchen.
Rita M, for sharing your work and your team of "fire times" Broths and other memorabilia of women Itata, at the crossroads: women, land, seeds, crops, and fire, the creation of course, identity and territory.
At friends / os Chilean blogger @ s of endless recipes, those scattered around the world, they stopped recording and sharing their preparations (not just candy Chile) Canela Kitchen's recipes, cuisine, Chef Potro, Dejamecocinarte, Dulcinea, in ghettos!, in my kitchen today, culinary space, the witch Ginger, La cucina of topino, the pan and Mango, Polin in Kitchen Sweet Kitchen Cakes Toronto especially Chile.
previous entries in this blog our sweet:
http://cocinartechile.blogspot.com/2008/07/postres-chilenos-1.html
http://cocinartechile.blogspot. com/2008/08/postres-chilenos-2.html
http://cocinartechile.blogspot.com/2008_08_24_archive.html
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